Hawaii! Pt 1, I Guess

A few weeks ago, Sergio and I celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary! That’s a pretty big milestone. We felt it was worth marking it as a special anniversary by taking a celebratory trip to Mexico. Wait, what? Isn’t this post titled Hawaii? Yes. That is because when we attempted to book ourselves flights to San Miguel de Allende (our honeymoon destination), we discovered that getting there from Alaska is a MUCH bigger financial and geographical endeavor than we were bargaining for over a slightly extended Spring Break. So we decided the time was finally right to become REAL Alaskans, and you can’t count yourself as a real Alaskan if you haven’t been to Hawaii enough times to have set opinions on which island is the best.

Why are Alaskan’s so attached to Hawaii? Pretty much the same reasons people from the American Southeast flock to the Gulf Coast. It’s close by and affordable. Of course, this is all relative when discussing Alaska. The closest direct flight we can take to anywhere outside of Alaska from Anchorage is a 4 hour journey to Seattle. We love Seattle, but that wasn’t the vibe we were aiming for to celebrate both our anniversary and Spring Break. The next closest direct flight is pretty much, you got it, Hawaii! Six hours, no stops! And while Hawaii is not cheap by any measure, even to an Alaskan that is pretty accustomed to inflated prices, there were some deals to be had through our mileage program and hotel points. I suppose it is also worth noting here that our Borough hosted the Arctic Winter Games this year, and that resulted in a nearly two week Spring Break, so we had buffer time that made a more extended trip possible. There was an exodus of valley residents taking advantage of the break, and at least eleven of my colleagues were in Hawaii at the same time as me. I managed to run into only ONE of them at the North Shore Foodland.

Now, this is where I tell you that Hawaii has always been WAY DOWN my list of travel destinations. I’m not really a bathing suit, sunbathe on the beach, tropical weather kind of gal. While I understood that Hawaii would be pretty, I can’t say that I’ve ever spent much time wishing to go there. I think I kind of always figured that I would opt to go somewhere outside of the US before Hawaii, even if it was for the same geography and weather, just to say I had. I was excited for the trip, but I had less than zero expectations of loving the place. I basically wanted to be in the sunlight, have Loco Moco, Spam musubi, unlimited shaved ices, and basically just chill. Spoiler: We loved it.

When it came to planning, we opted to stay in Oahu. Many people advised against this because they feel other islands are better, but to best utilize our time, we decided not to island hop. We also had a free night and some additional Hilton hotel points to use, so we decided to try out a little resort life for a change. However, knowing ourselves, we also split the trip into two parts and rented an Airbnb on the North Shore for the second half of the trip. In this way, we could determine what type of Hawaii we most enjoyed. The busy, tourist-centric Waikiki Beach area or the surfer-centric, small-town, big wave area. The answer is both. We enjoyed both equally but differently.

The Waikiki portion of our trip centered around learning how to do resort breakfasts in their most optimal way, daily walks to the closest Starbucks, finding the best nearby shave ices, and mapping the quickest beach access. Just about the time we felt we were really getting the hang of it, it was already time to head out! This is our biggest learning experience from our first trip. Don’t over plan, and whatever plans you do have, don’t try to do them during the resort time. There is PLENTY to do right outside the hotel doors. Expansive shopping, museums, and restaurants galore. We went the other way. We looked at it geographically and decided we would do several nearby things while in the Waikiki area, but before we had our rental car. This resulted in feeling perpetually crunched for time, missing some stuff (hiking Diamond Head), paying pretty high prices to get around town (Lyfts and taxis to Pearl Harbor), and just generally using up beach days and resort time for activities that would have been easier when we had our own car (taking Rolo’s first official college tour at the University of Hawaii – Go Bows!). Nothing on the island is so far away that we couldn’t have come back from the North Shore to do these things later.

Highlights from Waikiki are as follows –

Our hotel served miso soup for breakfast everyday. I mean, they served other stuff too, but Rolo was really thrilled with endless miso soup on tap for breakfast.

The incredibly calm, clear water of Waikiki beach that felt very safe for swimming and floating in the sun.

ABC Stores in every direction. Everything we watched ahead of time said not to pay the prices of ABC Stores, but they are 1) conveniently located, 2) chock full of interesting stuff, and 3) probably Rolo’s single favorite thing. We bought snacks, candy, toiletries, SPF shirts, and souvenirs here multiple times a day. Our favorite feature was all of the truly yummy prepared foods available all the time (legit ramen, SPAM musubi, egg sandwiches, etc). While this may feel like a weird time to bring up our favorite thing about Honolulu, it fits best here, I think. Going to Hawaii felt like going abroad minus the challenges that come with foreign travel, and this was especially true right in the Waikiki area. So basically, going to the ABC Store allowed me to do what I would most like to do in Japan which is eat all the cool snacks available in Japanese convenience stores.

Speaking of musubi, there was a musubi-only restaurant across the street from our hotel, and I was able to try more flavors. This is how I now know that I somehow find the Spam ones a wee bit fishy, but I could down about ten tuna/mayo ones in a single sitting.

Despite my best efforts, we only managed two shave ice experiences, but our best of the two was also just outside our hotel (Lahaina). It was just an unassuming window right out the back steps. The portions were huge and light as air and not too sweet somehow. The one in our picture was the child’s size!

We also managed two fancy dinners. The first was Ginza Barin Tonkatsu. We initially chose it because Sergio saw that they offered omurice, which is a dish he’s been very keen to try, but when we got there, it was no longer offered. However, that did not diminish our experience. Truly excellent food and service. Rolo opted out of going to dinner with us the next night, choosing instead to have ABC Store food, so we pretty much viewed the second meal as the one celebrating our anniversary. We had some lovely Italian food at Arancino on Beachwalk seated in the cutest little window seat. Sergio had a carbonara, and I had a bolognese, and even though it wasn’t planned, it really called to mind our early days when our favorite restaurant was a little-known place called David’s in NWA that served an excellent little Italian menu and cemented Sergio’s love of carbonara.

Free resort drinks! And actually, we didn’t really like this as much as you might expect. I’m only bringing it up so that if you also get free drinks from Hilton hotels and can’t do the intense sweetness of the mixed drinks (Mai Tai, Rum Punch, or Blue Hawaii), I learned by the second day that they’ll let you do some variations. Shots (barf) or an alcohol of your choice with a juice of your choice. I opted for tequila and pineapple juice thereafter. When the hotel heard it was our anniversary (they asked if we had any celebrations, we didn’t just offer that info), they gave us a nicer room, a cool tote bag, and extra drink tickets. We weren’t even able to make it through them all!

A visit to Pearl Harbor. We didn’t make an entire day of all the different sites you could visit. In fact, we almost didn’t even make our reservation at all (which is only $1 per person) when we woke up and saw that Lyft surge pricing had the cost of getting there at $150. However, the price had gone back to normal (around $60 one way) by the time we needed to leave, so we went. For transparency, it was about $70 to get back by taxi. The taxi driver was incredibly knowledgeable about the island and filled us up with ideas of where to go and what to do for the rest of the trip. Pearl Harbor is run like clockwork in a joint effort of the military and parks department. A ferry runs to the monument every fifteen minutes. Each group disembarks and tours around before taking the next ferry back. There is a volunteer there to answer questions. I’ve been to a number of somber memorials at this point, but I found this one the most moving. I think it is because it is all just right there. The ship is JUST below the water. The oil still leaks. The shore feels like you could reach out and touch it. And yet so many people lay buried right below you. It’s haunting. We asked ourselves while looking at the names on the wall if any survivors still remained alive, and if so, how old they would be. We got our answer two weeks after getting home when the last crewman died at 102.

Finally, we took Rolo on a college tour. For the first two hours, we were hyped! By this point in the trip, we were all more than sold on the weather (if anything TOO breezy, and if ever hot, cut by a daily rainstorm or two), the nature (just about every building is more outdoor than indoor to take full advantage), and just a really great lifestyle all around. So we were pretty excited to show Rolo a very viable option for college. And then we got to the freshmen dorms. Now, please don’t misunderstand. Sergio and I MET in freshmen dorms. We are absolutely aware that dorms are nothing to get excited about. We were Pre-Honor’s renovation Pomfret Hall residents when our community rooms were just big spaces full of old rolls of carpet, discarded vomit-laden mattresses, and trash bags, so … our bar is low. Please fully understand our meaning when we say that the Hawaii freshmen dorms are deeply sad. Where is all the money going from these tuition hikes if not the student amenities? Where? I’m glad we took the tour, but ending on the dorms really took the wind out of ALL of our sails.

Okay, as always, this has stretched. I’m going to have to do the North Shore portion another day. Here’s a few photos.

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Dear, Rolo,

You are fifteen (and one day)! Sheesh.

I wasn’t really prepared for 15. What makes 15 so different than 14? I don’t know! It just seems so definitive. Additionally, if 15 zooms by as fast as 14 (and all the ones before that), you’ll be 41 tomorrow. And I will still be 41 then too. Because I insist upon it.

Fourteen was a pretty good year, if I do say so myself! Even though this post is about you, I feel like I need to focus more on the “parenting you” side of things so that I don’t inadvertently put stuff you find embarrassing out there in the world. So why was fourteen good for ME?

You began high school, and since you ended up coming to my school, we spend more time together (which is sort of a funny thing to say given how the three of us are basically parallel play hermits that spend nearly every non-working minute AT LEAST near each other, if not actively interacting). You might think I am mostly referring to the drives to and from school, but you’ll agree that we don’t really talk that much on the way there each day. While the afternoons are usually more chatty, they are hit and miss due to sports. I mostly mean the way you hang out in my room in the mornings and at lunch. It has given me so much more insight into your social life and the way you interact with people. This arrangement allows me a better understanding of your friends, the teachers you are drawn to, and the stuff you do and do not pay attention to. For example …

You don’t gossip. Or engage in gossip. One of the reasons you don’t always have much to talk about on the morning drive is that your brain NEVER dwells on other people. Anything going on with your friends this week? I don’t know. Do your friends have crushes? I don’t know! Is there a bully at school? I don’t know! Do you know any details I don’t already know about “the incident”? What incident? It’s not that you never have conversation about your friends, it’s just that it is purely observational. You are more likely to relay an event. This kid answered this question on the Kahoot that nobody else knew. That kid won’t stop interrupting the teacher. I was the only one that knew xyz at my algebra II table today. This has been such a revelation for me. I think I thought you simply didn’t talk TO ME about stuff like this, but now I know you simply don’t do this AT ALL. As your friends casually chat, you’ll just pop in periodically with a funny meme or draw a cartoon to show them or something.

On that same note, being with you in this way, I’ve also seen the ways we still need to actively “raise” you. The gaps in your upbringing that we barely still have time to cover. One of those is related to the above observation. You don’t make small talk. And that’s fair because small talk is among the worst things. It is somehow both anxiety-inducing and dull at the same time. Introverts hate small talk, and while you aren’t shy like me, you are an introvert in most ways that count. So we’ve been working on it together on the quiet morning car rides. Fourteen is the year I began making you come up with one topic of conversation each day. I’m working to teach you the art of asking open-ended questions that get other people talking about themselves. This sounds mean, but it isn’t. You get to learn more about the person you are with, usually things you wouldn’t think to ask about, and you also get to be quiet without being rude. It’s a work in progress.

That’s the other big thing about this age. It feels like time is running out now, and we still have SO MUCH ground to cover. You have to learn to drive! You don’t want to, and we aren’t super pumped to undertake the endeavor either, but it’s time now according to society and stuff. Yuck. Similarly, every academic success to this point has been mostly a bonus, but suddenly, it is IMPORTANT! We took your first official college tour in Hawaii. Your email that you never check is full of college recruitment already. The world is beckoning and, uh, I’m not sure we’ve prepared you adequately?

Overall, I really enjoyed fourteen. You threw yourself into cross country and made new friends. You seem to be doing the same with track (even if the season is only four days old so far). I genuinely like your closest friends and think they are good and interesting people. Your teachers seem to like you as a person (and it’s not to do with me because I literally still don’t even know all my coworkers’ names). You continue to enjoy childlike things while simultaneously maturing into a pretty like-able adult. I know we’ll still have struggles on this front as you tire of the novelty of high school, but recently you finally took a lesson to heart that we’ve been trying to get you to care about for ALWAYS which is to just turn in all your work on time. Seems simple, but it was such an angels singing on high moment when you looked over at us a couple months ago and said, “I turned in all my work early. It’s just so much easier to have everything done early.” Seriously, the clouds parted and trumpets blared. In a good way. Now we are trying to impart the lesson that you have to push yourself harder even if you are meeting the expectations of a class. This is mostly to try to build your resilience for the day a class REALLY challenges you … which I’m thinking could be as soon as next year. You have really developed your taste in music this year, and we are able to share in that as a family. You are halfway through your braces journey! Yesterday was one year! And TODAY was the first broken bracket. I guess over one year without a broken bracket is okay. You still create art, and even if is sometimes creepy to an outside observer (baby doll limbs as room decor), it is more and more impressive all the time. You became a Wilderness First Responder and subsequently changed your pathway at school to medical. You went on overnight school events and attended your first high school dance … and you danced! And perhaps the biggest development of all, you made eye contact with a waitress while ordering your food at an audible voice-level yesterday!

So yeah, you’re really just becoming a complete human right in front of us. We enjoy you immensely, and we find you challenging, and you can infuriate us with a single look and/or tone of voice. I want you to stay my baby forever in the same heartbeat that I want to help you grow and change so you can challenge, infuriate, and impress me forever. Parenting is such a trip.

Happy fifteen, Rosalind!

2023 Book Thoughts

I was going to write a holiday travel post here first, but I’m not feeling that right now. Our trip home was lovely! No issues at all, and NO, we weren’t on the plane that lost a chunk of itself. In fact, we didn’t even fly Alaska Airlines this time, which I fully lamented right up until their plane broke midair and grounded tons of flights. Anyway, we thoroughly enjoyed our trip home, and I’ll probably find the energy for a post about it soon. 

Let’s have a 2023 book roundup, shall we? I don’t have tons to talk about this year, but I did enjoy my reading experience even if the numbers are low. Sergio, his friend from work, Elizabeth, and I formed the world’s least official book club in which we would all read something one of us suggested and then we would just pass comments back and forth through Sergio. I actually read a number of suggested books this year. I think the lesson is, if you feel you’ve been in a reading slump, let other people guide you for a while. 

Disclaimer: All links take you to Amazon NOT because I think you should buy books from Amazon over patronizing your local bookstore/library, but because it’s just the easiest place to find the covers/reviews all in one spot.

The “Book Club” Books

The End of Drum Time by Hanna Pylvainen: I think this is the best book I read this year. Best in the sense that I think it might win awards as time goes on, but not necessarily that I think you’ll find the experience of reading it … pleasant. Well, that’s not fair. It’s a REALLY slow start. Sleeping pill replacement level slow for the first 55 pages. However, it picks up after that and is very compelling. It was the type of book that had me doing lots of research to know more about the real people, time period, and culture that I was learning about through the book. Definitely worth a read. 

We Sinners by Hanna Pylvainen: Same author as above! I put them in this order because this is how I read them. They were written in the other order. This book is a slim little thing that reads fast. If you grew up around/in any sort of religious fundamentalism, or if that sort of thing just interests you, you’ll run right through this. The last chapter would probably have been baffling if I hadn’t read them backwards like this, but it didn’t bother me since the last chapter takes place in the setting of the first book. 

Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow by Gabrielle Zevin: Hmmmmm. This one gets LOTS of accolades. I … didn’t love it, and I liked it better than Sergio. It was not a hard/wasted read. One chapter in particular was quite lovely (not the one that takes place in the video game which for some reason just irritates the poo out of me), but overall, I’ve only grown to dislike this one more as time has gone on (and I started from indifference). Several books I’ve read over the last couple of years have used a surprise event relevant to our generation to hinge the book on, and it’s starting to feel tropey. I would say more, but it’s a spoiler. Eh. 

This Time Tomorrow by Emma Straub: A little family time travel adventure with an unexpected amount of emotional heft? I liked it. A very self-aware little thing that subverts your expectations just slightly each time you feel you might get bored. It’s 100% targeted at people around my age that want to reminisce about the 90s, but I bet you could still enjoy it even if that doesn’t apply to you. More than a plane read but not by much. Go for it. 

The School for Good Mothers by Jessamine Chan: A slightly futuristic dystopian novel that reimagines government interference in parenting. Sergio liked this one more than me, but I still found it compelling. My issues arose when I kept expecting MORE. Something more dystopian or more sci-fi or more creepy. Perhaps the story veers too far into the hyperbolic, but it manages to capture the utter helplessness people must feel when the government takes their children. Perhaps it takes that level of exaggeration to make people feel the correct level of empathy for otherwise somewhat unsympathetic characters. 

Orpheus Girl by Brynne Rebele-Henry: Disclaimer: The recommender unrecommended this one after I was already halfway through, so I read it and Sergio did not. This had the recipe to be good, but it didn’t quite measure up to its own goal. Meant to be a retelling of Orpheus and Eurydice through the lens of an LGBTQIA conversion camp. All the pieces were there, but the execution just fell short. 

The “Niece” Books

Fourth Wing and Iron Flame by Rebecca Yarros:  This series was recommended by my oldest niece …  and most of Tik Tok. It has a lot of elements I like in a book including magic, a magic adjacent school setting, political conflict, etc. It also has snarky dragons! I enjoyed these reads, but I felt both were TOO LONG. I also felt that they got hugely repetitive. If there is a character you vaguely like but can’t quite remember their name – they gonna die. Probably in the next two paragraphs. This has a way of undermining the emotional stakes of the story. The snarky dragons are my favorite part by far, so if that sounded weird to you, it’s not. If you have an HP hole in your heart, or if you like a semi-spicy fantasy, give it a go! 

Student Recommended:

Monday’s Not Coming by Tiffany D. Jackson: A student in 4th period handed me a book and said, “I think you’ll like this!” This doesn’t happen as much as you might think, so I read it instantly. What I DID like was the trippy timeline and unreliable narrator. This is some AP Lit discussion material right here! What I didn’t love? Well, my tolerance for trauma is increasingly slim, and this, like Colleen Hoover, hammers it home. I will at least give this one that it is (unfortunately) pulled from real headlines and therefore must be faced. 

No Category: 

City Under One Roof by Iris Yamashita: This book is inspired by the city of Whittier, AK! If you don’t know, Whittier is mostly made up of one high-rise building and the majority of the town lives inside the one building. This story takes place in a fake Whittier with a murder to solve. Honestly, a perfect plane read right up until a totally bizarre twisty cliff-hanger situation toward the end. Should have been a total romp but jumped the shark, in my opinion. Sergio read this one with me too, and I think he would agree. 

The Distant Hours by Kate Morton: Sold to me as a gothic romance for Jane Eyre and Rebecca lovers. That adds up. My only issue here is that I eventually recognized the trajectory/outcomes and simply had to wait out all the events in the author’s time. I think your enjoyment of this book entirely hinges on your knowledge of the material it emulates (possibly better to know less?). I still enjoyed it. 

Son of a Witch by Gregory Maguire: I was attempting to catch up on this book series so I could read a book further down the line that was gifted to me. I enjoyed this one! Unfortunately, I got nowhere with the next one about the lion, so I still haven’t caught up to my gifted book. If you liked Wicked, this is a worthy sequel. 

Sea of Tranquility by Emily St. John Mandel: This is also a time travel book? If I remember correctly? It is from the author of Station Eleven, and I think having knowledge of that book makes this one more interesting. Both books hinge on a global pandemic as a plot device, and this one really has some meta elements because at least one character just seems to be the author who wrote a really popular book about an apocalyptic level global pandemic and then actually lived through a real one? I enjoyed this one, but I’ve probably messed up these details since it has been a while. 

Under the Whispering Door by TJ Klune: I read this one because The House in the Cerulean Sea was such a cozy read last year. This one felt like almost the same characters in a different setting with a different sort of magic. I still enjoyed it, but it felt a lot the same, so whichever you pick up first will probably be the one you like best. 

In the Lives of Puppets by TJ Klune: I clearly liked it enough to keep picking up the same author, and while the main characters and sidekicks still felt like recycled versions of these other books’ characters, the premise of this one was different enough to feel novel. 

The Lost Bookshop by Evie Woods: The type of book I always WANT to love is a hidden bookshop/lost library/magical bookstore premise (always chasing that Beauty and the Beast hidden library high). Unfortunately, I’ve always been underwhelmed by my options and this is no exception. The timing and romance felt off and jolting. I was told to care about relationships without being made aware of why. I don’t think I would recommend it, but I know a lot of people liked it. 

The YA/Classroom/Banned Books:

Me and Earl and the Dying Girl by Jesse Andrews: This is one of the books I had to remove from my classroom shelves while our district attempts to ban 56 titles. So I read it. It’s fine. There are a couple of times the main character, a teenage boy, expresses some teenage boy thoughts about sex/girls/anatomy that are not often committed to the page. I thought it was refreshing hearing from a male author how a high school boy might really think. My only issue with the book was how utterly tertiary the dying girl is, but I guess the title gave me all the warning I needed. 

Simon Sort of Says by Erin Bow: I recommend this. It’s really not even YA. It’s middle grade. Of all the books that have attempted to integrate school shootings into their plots, this is the only one I have found worthwhile. The shooting happens off page, and the book centers on a survivor and how he and his family learn to go on with their lives afterward. Deals with big topics in an empathetic way without bogging down a child reader. Deftly handled. I’d still rather not have to read anymore books about shootings though, if American society could go ahead and get on that finally. 

Frankenstein by Mary Shelley: I had never read this book until I had to teach it this year. I’m glad I read it, and I’ll definitely keep teaching it, but Victor is such a whiny-pot! Geez! This whole book feels like a creative experiment that asks, “What if your executive dysfunction got so out of control that your whole family died about it?” If you’ve never read it and think you know the story from pop culture, give it a go. You REALLY probably do not. 

Of Mice and Men by John Steinbeck: I also had never read this until I had to teach it last year. I have never dreaded a book so much in my life. It took me MONTHS to read 107 pages. The kids love it. Highly engaging. I’ve already done this unit again this year, and damn it all, I think I APPRECIATE this book and Steinbeck now? Sigh. 

The Last Minute Cheat:

The Wager: A Tale of Shipwreck, Mutiny, and Murder by David Grann: This is a cheat because I actually finished it on New Year’s Day. I didn’t realize that the book would end at the 72% mark due to photos, references, and citations. If I had, I would definitely have finished the night before. Technically, this book is on my “Books I Read In 2024” list because that is my arbitrary rule. I’m writing about it now because … I want to! I think this was my favorite book of the year. If you think it will be dry because it is non-fiction, I really encourage you to try any Grann book. This one reads so fast, has so much interesting info, and will make you laugh and lament and shake your head and be so glad you have access to citrus fruits. Sergio seemed to thoroughly enjoy this one as well and instantly recommended it to other people. It’s already being made into a movie, so you better get moving. 

Alrighty! I think that is everything from my 2023 list that is either good enough or bad enough to discuss. Happy Reading!

Madrid Part 2 and NYC

Almost exactly six months later, let’s talk about Madrid and NYC! At least what I can remember this late in the game.

New York and Madrid have a common denominator between them. You might think it is that they are both large cities full of people, culture, food, and momentum, but actually, it is that we feel we barely scratched the surface of either destination before our time was up. Did we tour the Royal Palace in Madrid? Nope. Did we see the Statue of Liberty in New York? Nope. Not to say we didn’t use our time wisely. It’s just that you need a lot more time for both places.

We stayed in a cool Airbnb with a great view near the shopping area of Madrid on our second go around. This meant we did not return to the big park I liked so much from the first night. However, it did put us in easy reach of food, shopping, museums, and plazas. The girls had a lot more fast food options we could easily get to as well. In fact, I think we had a Popeye’s Chicken, a Tim Horton’s, and a Starbucks within a block. We also had a lot of other stuff so that Sergio and I could try the local Peruvian restaurant while Rolo had Chinese takeout and Emma had chicken tenders. Everyone was happy most of the time. Don’t worry, though, we also had some legit Spanish food as well. I’ll get to that.

Other than food, our time in Madrid was mostly spent at art museums. We saw Picasso’s Guernica and Goya’s Saturn Devouring His Son and endless other masterpieces. Rolo bought a print of the latter and I’m sure people who don’t know the myth belonging to it, or the story of Goya’s later years, would probably find her choice a bit disturbing for a 14 year old. As a teacher, I can tell you that nothing excites 7th-10th graders quite like mythology. My class just wrapped their Antigone unit and, as always, their favorite part was the mythology review beforehand … followed closely by the general overview of Oedipus/incest. It’s funny what American society has no issue with us teaching and what they do … but I digress.

We spent an evening wandering around town and hanging out at the Plaza Mayor. The girls bought little toys from a vendor and had a blast shooting them high into the air. We bought Spanish candy at one of the local shops. We spent a day shopping for souvenirs. While we did not tour the palace, we did walk to it one day and wander around. I would love to explore all of that stuff so much more. We also spent an afternoon watching Spiderman: Across the Spider-Verse at a downtown Madrid movie theater. I love going to movies abroad because I don’t worry about marking my exits and checking whether I think other patrons are carrying firearms. Others may feel watching movies we could see anywhere is a waste of good sightseeing time, but we find it is a great way to rest up a bit mid-trip. It also lets us feel a little more “local” to be doing something day-to-day. We also love to grocery shop nearly daily in other countries, so a movie is really something comparatively.

I don’t remember the names of all the restaurants for our main Madrid meals, but I do remember we sought out a cool Mexican restaurant and two traditional Spanish restaurants. Mexican food in Europe is usually more miss than hit, but that place was pretty legit. I don’t remember what everyone had, but I do remember Birria tacos, guacamole, and Coronas. Sometimes you have to reject eating the local cuisine and just indulge in a craving, ya know? This might have been the only sit-down dinner where all four of us left happy with our meal. We also finally found time in Madrid to seek out a traditional Spanish dish called Cocido Madrileno, or chickpea stew. Fair warning, the pictures online generally don’t do this dish justice. We got to the restaurant we had made a reservation at (nearby the palace, I think, or at least government buildings) and saw that NOBODY was in there. We passed by a few times before going inside, at which point we were taken into an inner (still cozy, but much larger) room that was packed with people. I don’t think the girls had a great time with their food choices (lamb chops and a ham and cheese board), but Sergio and I loved the stew. Chickpeas aren’t generally my fave, but this stew is enough to change my mind.

Our last meal was the most memorable because it was at the oldest continuously-running restaurant in Europe, Restaurante Botin! They are famous for suckling pig. As you might imagine due to the age, it is arched, stoned, and cramped in this restaurant, and we felt super special because we were taken even further into its depths to sit in a small wine cellar-looking room with three other small groups. Sergio and I got the pre-set course meal. I had garlic soup, which was delicious and hearty because it was chock full of bread, and Sergio had gazpacho which he enjoyed and surprised us by coming with tons of add-ins so that it comes off very salad-like. The suckling pig was excellent, and I suppose that should not be surprising given they’ve had a few hundred years to perfect it. Sometimes you go to tourist-focused restaurants and realize they are pushing you through like a conveyer belt (ahem, Paris), and the quality of the food does not match the price, so I had my worries. No need to worry here. The experience and food were excellent. I think this was the only place I caved and had Spanish Rioja straight up (no lemonade), and despite being a red-wine hater, I found it decent. I couldn’t remember the desserts or what the girls had, but Rolo just surprised us both by remembering she had, and I quote, “the weird soup thing I only dipped bread into, and a lemon slushy thing, and someone had a really chocolatey thing.” To translate, beef consommé and bread, lemon sorbet, and a chocolate tart.

Okay, I’m sure I’m missing many great Madrid adventures, but I better move on since I’ve already written more than I expected and haven’t gotten to New York.

This was not a real trip to New York. It was an extended layover. That’s what we kept repeating to ourselves so that we didn’t try and overextend our energy. It still worked out to nearly three days, but it was super quick. Sidenote – Sergio and I also got the lay-down seats on the way home from Spain, and yes, we enjoyed it just as much. I was given a squid salad when they ran out of the other option before they got to me, but it turned out fine. I mean, have you really lived until you’ve eaten airplane squid salad?

So … New York City. I have mixed feelings. Despite all of our travel, neither of us had been to New York City. Perhaps coming straight from Granada and Madrid put New York at a disadvantage for us, but I’ll admit that none of us liked New York for at least the first 24 hours. Don’t get me wrong, we liked THINGS about it, but I was a little crushed by my own reaction to NYC after years of high expectation. I suppose I’ve always felt I would experience an instant connection to it like I have other destinations, but I felt like all I could see in the first 24 hours were all the ways it could be improved. I kept thinking about the many other places that offer much the same opportunities with less hardship. You can rightfully bash me for this opinion, but first impressions left me feeling claustrophobic. It was loud, crowded, dirty, smelly, and frankly, kind of … angry? Now, having said that, we eventually settled in, got food, got our bearings, and by the last day, we felt we wanted to return in the future to explore more deeply. It took the full three days to get comfortable enough to look beyond the sensory onslaught and find the charm.

What did we NOT do in New York City? The Empire State Building, Rockefeller Center, shopping, Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, go up high in any building, MOMA, or have a hot dog. I would have told you we did almost NOTHING touristy until I got to thinking about it. Considering our short time, we actually managed to fit in a few important things. What we DID see/do: Central Park, The Met, 9/11 Memorial, rode the Subway, walked through Times Square, saw a show on Broadway, and ate everything in sight. We managed Xi’an Famous Foods (I’d go back for this alone), Russ and Daughters, Parm, Joe’s Shanghai, Black Seed Bagels, and Lombardi’s Pizza. I think I missed something, but that’s a lot for the time we were there. We saw Moulin Rouge on Broadway. We knew every word of the musical already, but it is so immersive and amazing in person. We all had a great time at the play, but Rolo was especially over the moon. In the end, once all the chaos and overwhelm fell away, I believe New York was actually Rolo’s highlight of the whole trip. She’d probably consider living there one day if it weren’t for all those pesky people! We’re raising a kid with Metropolitan tastes and an Alaskan hermit’s personality. Good luck with that, Rolo!

Other than the food and Broadway, the thing I liked best about New York was the ease with which I could get anywhere. While the NYC Subway is grittier than any other metro systems I’ve ridden, it did have the advantage of air conditioning, at least the ones we used. Sergio and I both walked alone to get food at different times, and I felt safe and found myself really enjoying the early morning (relative) quiet. This was when the architecture and history was easiest to find and appreciate. I think if we went back with our new knowledge of which areas suit us, more time to spend, a plan in place, and perhaps even choosing to stay in a different borough, we might come to love New York as much as some of our other favorite cities.

Okay, phew. I spent a long time saying little, but I’m caught up on travel posts! Here is a link to our other photos.

Always Catching Up

I would like it noted that I did NOT put off grading the first round of academic essays by writing here instead! And that, my friends, is what we call growth. In fact, we’re solidly halfway through Q2 and beginning our second project. This is the FASTEST school year I’ve ever taught. Perhaps this is because Rolo is in high school now, everything feels busy around that, and her youth is just ZOOMING by. Wow, look at all these all caps words. I must be in an all caps mood today.

Anyway, I still haven’t finished talking about our summer travel. I have Madrid and New York to go. I think I came here to take care of that, but now I’m feeling a life update instead. Let’s work backwards.

We had an extended fall this year. We managed only one early snow shower that didn’t even leave traces on the ground, and then nothing else whatsoever until the end of the first week of November. By the end of the second week of November, we had 50% of our annual snowfall for the year on the ground. Last Thursday was our first remote day, followed by a vacation day for Veterans’ Day, and then another remote day Monday. Some people find remote days bothersome, but I found it all very refreshing. Our school district decided to shake things up this year by attempting a Zones/Levels system for weather problems, so yesterday they reopened schools without providing bus transportation. This resulted in about half our students coming to school and glorified babysitting rather than teaching.

Why do I tell you this about our district? Because near universal distrust of our school board by teachers and students resulted in Rolo’s first school walkout. Don’t get me wrong, she’s been with us at several political protests throughout her life, but this was her first solo journey. Would I have gone if I could have? Of course. I took part in the no confidence vote and a separate school board protest, but the walkout could not extend to on-duty teachers. Instead I ran up front after class and took photos of my kiddo, her friends, and a bunch of really incredible students trying to make a difference – through the window. If you want more clarity on the issues they feel motivated to change, you can look to the entire state of Florida. Book bans, blanket district policies that are hurting students on both ends of the academic scale, LGBTQIA+ witch hunts, and stifling student representation are a few. Our board kicked off the lone student member without cause or proper procedure because he politely detailed some of these concerns at a meeting. If this were a movie, all of the community support, impassioned and informed speeches, student organization and effort would have resulted in positive change. Instead, these kids are learning lessons about humanity that I didn’t have to absorb until my thirties. While that is so disappointing and discouraging, I’ve been bolstered by their activism and it has brought the finest shred of hope back to me. When these board seats open again, I hope some of these current juniors and seniors are there to take them. Or that they are far, far away from here. Whichever is best for their mental well-being.

Webster turned two years old on Saturday. He’s still enormous, clumsy, and goofy. He and Brit are better and better about cuddling together. He’s never been destructive, and I feel he’s already starting to settle into his sleepier adult personality. Perhaps his biggest negative behavior is that he demands your attention by climbing halfway into your lap and flipping his head at your hands until you give him attention, or maybe that he never lets Brit cuddle with us for long before he displaces her, or MAYBE that he has decided he should take up 1/3 of the bed despite knowing better. He somehow manages to take up less room than Eliot did by barely moving all night, but he’s still about 70 lbs of dead weight wedged between us and weighing down the blankets. Otherwise he’s a total doofus doll baby.

Have I really not discussed Rolo’s XC season? Weird. Except maybe not. As she ages, she’s less mine to talk about here. I’ll keep it to the basics. She joined high school XC for her feeder school because the choice schools don’t have sports of their own. This allows her to get PE credit and keep in touch with some middle school friends. We didn’t have any expectations other than her joining a team. We were really blown away by the whole team experience though. Multiple team dinners, potlucks, events, overnight trips, and fundraisers were organized by the XC booster club and parents. They had a SLEW of coaches that really taught them, and to our relief after middle school, prevented injury though good practices. Rolo made new friends, reconnected with old ones, and just had a full high school sport experience. On top of that, she improved by leaps and bounds. So much so that she was promoted to varsity and ran at State. She even lettered! It’s not as though we’re surprised she CAN do these things, so much as she’s rarely committed to a sport so enthusiastically before. Her motivation to improve came entirely from within, and that impressed us.

Oh, this is out of order, but we did the Halloween thing. I fumbled on Rolo’s first costume idea, so she was left to figure something out. Due to her new love of not-too-scary-sort-of-funny slasher flicks, she threw together a spot-on interpretation of “First Girl” Annie Phillips from Friday the 13th. I imagine the goal of a horror movie is to be the Last Girl, but that doesn’t make for a very fun costume. She wanted to have friends over, hand out candy, and watch some of these movies with them. There might have been a quick trick or treat jaunt to the more generous houses, and there might have been a few giggle breaks during the movie. Turns out that most teens these days, at least the ones Rolo befriends, remain pretty sheltered from scary stuff. And much to our dismay, we forgot that streaming versions of any 70s or 80s movie will contain boobs. Definitely a parenting fail there on our part. Gotta use the edited for tv versions we grew up on! Oh! Rolo decided her not-very-hard-earned money should go toward a 12 ft. skeleton. We talked her down to a 7 footer instead. She and a friend named him Teddy Bonesevelt. We ended up with a funny little three skeleton (various sizes) tableau on our porch, but I forgot to take pictures.

Hmmmm. What else? Rolo opted to take a Wilderness First Responder course outside of school. This meant that she spent every weekend day of October in a class full of older teens and adults from 9-5 … except the very first day because she unexpectedly had to run in State, but all the days after! She was the youngest person to ever take this course with her instructor, and though there were some really challenging days, she is now WFR certified! If you are ever injured or ill over an hour from any help, she’s your gal! She’s 14, so all this is subject to change, but she has really honed in on an interest in medicine through these classes and experiences. For now, this is translating into switching career paths here at school and exploring a medical pathway. Guess we’ll see!

Oh, and Sergio had a birthday too! Back in September (I’m very on top of things). I don’t really remember what we did to honor the day, but it usually involves letting him watch football all day and forcing a dessert on him. This year he asked for Rice Krispy treats. We had three kinds because basic ones didn’t seem like enough effort for a birthday. Coconut, pistachio, and regular. While the pistachio were quite good, nothing really beats a basic one.

I think that pretty much catches you up to our big events. By “OUR” I mean “Rolo and the dogs”. Sergio and I just exist to take care of them and send each other stupid videos via social media from six inches apart on the couch. Is that not how adults are supposed to spend time?

Random assortment of photos here.

Summer Travel 2023 Part 2 of …

Okay, I’m clearly very quick with these travel posts. Let’s get back to it.

Granada stuff continued –

Albayzin: At least twice we walked up to the oldest neighborhood in Granada and wandered. I think I mentioned this already, but I’ve since remembered the name of the area. We were staying right at the edge of this part of town, so walking to it was basically taking a left out of our door and going up, up, up rather than taking a right and heading down to the plaza area. All of my “here’s a beautiful whimsical staircase/alley/street pictures are usually right around this part of Granada. One of these trips had more of a goal attached than the others in that we headed to the Mirador de San Nicolas to check out the views from a high point across from the Alhambra. There is a little plaza area that you can take in the view from without taking any extra steps. The girls joined the crowds here and stayed put after the upward trek. Sergio and I went on into the church and up to the bell tower. The views are spectacular, of course, but Sergio and I were both struck by the church interior. The various murals were modern, bold, and bright while also being unique from each other. Definitely worth the small hike, especially to catch a sunset. This is where I tell you that if mobility is an issue for you, Granada might not be your best option. However, an internet search tells me you can take mini-shuttles to all the places we walked, so options are out there. We definitely spent a lot of time pressed against walls on teeny, narrow roads as tour shuttles and taxis skimmed our elbows.

On our last night in Granada, we attended a Flamenco show right next door to our building. You hear a lot of the traditional guitar playing and singing associated with this dance style all around Granada. Performers will come up to your outdoor cafe, do a song or two, and then circulate for tips. It was always a nice piece of added ambience. The professional show had four performers. A guitarist, a singer, a female dancer, and a male dancer. I believe the space is primarily a flamenco dance school. For the shows, they open a bar before the start and Sergio and I got drinks. Granada got terribly hot not long after our trip, but we had gorgeous weather while we were there. Still, a cool drink in a still, crowded space was a lovely luxury. I’ll tell you about my drink here in a bit. The performers put on what is best described as an exhibition. The guitarist and singer performed first while the dancers periodically snapped or melodically encouraged (sort of like a Mexican Grito?) them. Then the woman gave a solo performance that was lovely, followed by a demonstration of the footwork with no accompaniment. It looks DIFFICULT! I mean, she made it look graceful, but I imagine it is difficult to do. There was another musical performance followed by the male dancer’s solo. His was also graceful/difficult, but his had a somewhat ballet-like quality in that he was clearly telling a tragic story through his performance. Finally, they invited the audience to film or take pictures and did one last mini performance. That’s what you can see below. I’m not sure everyone in our foursome was totally sold on the idea of going to the show, but we all seemed to have been won over in the end.

Okay, so Granadan food –

If you opt to stay in Granada as long as we did, you have a good chance of eating a lot of the recommended spots. Pretty much any website or guide book is going to give you all the main recommendations, and most of them were easy walking distance from our flat. Now, we also ate a lot of meals that were not specific destinations for ease. As mentioned, we were right off a main plaza where tourists center themselves, and there were a series of restaurants right there. They served a variety of international fare knowing who their target demographic was. Our first night we had doner kebap while Emma had a pizza. Another night we went to the next spot and the girls had very americanized pasta while we had an absolutely giant meat and roasted vegetable platter. The girls also knew how to get to a Burger King up the road pretty early on, so that was utilized a time or two as well. While I didn’t have a single bad meal, these are the standouts.

Churros and chocolate: I would give you a specific location, but we just went to the nearest one with a shade-covered open-air dining space twice. I don’t think you could go wrong anywhere. They bring you cups of hot chocolate which is less like American hot chocolate and far closer to (almost identical to) chocolate gravy. They also bring you a sharing plate of churros. These would be recognizable to you if you’ve had Mexican churros, but they differ in that they are neither ridged nor covered in cinnamon sugar. They are really just a freshly fried donut tube/fry bread. It’s not as sweet as you might imagine, and the girls would use the accompanying sugar packet to dip their churros into before the chocolate. This was probably the only meal that really hit home with all four members of our party. As I said, we had this twice.

For Sergio and me, the absolute highlight of Granada food was Bar los Diamantes. Although there was a larger, newer branch of this bar right in our own plaza, we opted to walk to the original a few blocks away. The girls opted to stay home, so we got them sandwiches from a nearby cafe along with snacks and drinks from our nearest bodega. This bar is on a really popular food street, and when we arrived, we realized we might not be up for the challenge. It is basically a small room with a bar and two cafe tables. There were also two small tables outside. Every available space was OCCUPIED like a couple times over. Honestly, my heart rate spiked hard and I thought for sure we would give up and move somewhere easier. Sergio was not so quick to give in, however, and miraculously secured one of the small tables. He headed to the bar that was two to three people deep and ordered a round of drinks and a fried fish platter. Actually, he ordered three rounds of drinks in order not to go up too often. I will never understand how the bartender did it, but he kept up with all the patrons with ease, yelling for us over the din when our food came up. As a person who has a strict rule that students are not allowed to hand anything directly to me because I will latch onto it like a chinchilla only to drop it nearby, also like a chinchilla, and have absolutely no clue that anything has transpired or what I’ve done with whatever mystery item you’ve handed me, tapas waitstaff really awe me with their focus. In addition to the fried platter, we were given a plate of fried eggplant, boiled shrimp, and little clams. I loved all the seafood, but let’s take a minute to appreciate dogfish. The fried platter consisted of fried calamari, sardines, dogfish, and shrimp. We didn’t know what the chunks of whitefish were at the time, but they were really standout. Texturally a lot like halibut but the taste was very lemony. You would think they’ve been seasoned, but the internet tells me that this is just how they taste. The internet also tells me dogfish is a shark. I don’t know how I feel about that. The sardines were also excellent. We went to this bar twice.

Speaking of sardines, we had a dish given to us at some restaurant up toward the Alhambra that was just tomatoes with sardines and olive oil. It was great. It isn’t something I would have thought to order, so I appreciate the tapas culture for this reason. We had other traditional Spanish fare at the same place. A dish of fries with the local ham, a poached egg, and a small knob of foie gras. Patatas bravas were a hit with Emma. I don’t remember what else we had.

The girls enjoyed a night out at a fancier Italian restaurant where they both got pasta. This is where I first unknowingly had the drink I said I would mention from above. When you order sangria in this part of Spain, you end up with a light, bubbly red wine drink over ice. I LOVED it. And I don’t love red wine as a rule. It turned out to be Tinto de verano, or “red wine of summer” or maybe “summer red”. Rather than red wine marinated in fruit, it is actually a Rioja mixed with “lemonade” over ice. There is usually a sliced citrus fruit thrown on the rim somewhere. We’ve remade this drink at home, and to make it here, you need only a Rioja and Fresca. I highly recommend you give it a shot as a refreshing summer drink. It’s how I always wished red wine tasted. And as one last little note, if you’ve ever felt intimidated by traveling abroad, or made to feel like an unsophisticated American, keep in mind that I just told you that among my favorite spanish food experiences were what amounted to chocolate gravy, roasted potatoes, and wine mixed with soda, so … no worries. Just go and enjoy!

Okay, in the interest of honesty, this is the post I wrote and abandoned for so long, so I don’t remember what else I intended to talk about. When I link you to another Google Photos album, there will be tons of crossover from the previous post, but you should also be able to see all those smooshified photos bigger and more clearly if you like. I’ll try to be back for Madrid much sooner this time! I’ve gotten settled into the school year (can you believe we’ve already been back for FIVE weeks!), so I hope to get some writing time in here. If that doesn’t work, you should see me back here in about two weeks when my first batch of 130 essays are ready to be graded and I am doing the avoidance shuffle.

Click here for Granada album.

Below are a couple of short videos of the dancing in the plaza that we came across at least twice because I think it was so sweet. Emma and I joined in eventually, and a very reluctant Rolo let us swing her arms once in a while. No video of that though!

Backlog

Well, here we are on the last day of my summer break and I still have the second post of our Spain vacation in my drafts being edited. I think this one qualifies as a record-holder for length of time it has taken to write. I started it on July 5th, revisited it here and there, and not only am I still not ready to publish it, but I think I’ll just have to delete it and start over. Something about the way I’m writing the post is so uninspiring that I can’t be bothered to fix it. Don’t get me wrong. Spain was amazing, so it isn’t the material that is holding me back. It is simply my own writing style that is getting on my nerves mixed with a healthy dose of irritation at how long it takes to squishify my photos and get them into the blog in a way that will still load for people. I might see about alternate methods if I can.

For now, I’m going to relieve myself of backlog information and come back to the travel blogs later. Hard to say if school starting will help or hurt. I often blog during the school year to avoid doing more pressing/boring tasks, so there is often an uptick in posts. On the other hand, I’m usually a zombie for the first month or more and come home and fall asleep in the dog bed. We’ll all have to find out what happens together.

Not a whole lot happened in late June/Early July. It was the down time of the summer, and you would think that might equate to me blogging more, but it seemed I almost always filled up my days somehow. I did small home projects and deep cleaning that you only get around to when you’re going to have houseguests. I did a good job of establishing a workout routine and rescued our Peloton from obsolescence. I did a couple of online classes to attempt to move up on my salary scale. Just summer stuff. What I did NOT do enough of was write here or read anything. In a summer when I should have been binging all the AP lit choices, I instead watched a lot of Tik Toks.

An update on how my midlife crisis is playing out: I decided I was probably not going to spring for the amount of Botox I would need and instead cut my hair to no longer see my forehead. I also decided I hate all my clothes, specifically pants, and that I wanted to NEVER WEAR UNCOMFORTABLE CLOTHES AGAIN. But also feel good about myself in them? For my 41st birthday, Sergio gave me a large gift card to Nordstrom with the instructions to simply keep returning items until I had things I was happy with. I learned quickly that if I am brave enough to be a middle-aged woman that might look out of place, many of the styles from my youth have returned, and since that was one of the few times I ever enjoyed my clothes, this was a positive discovery. I gifted all but two pairs of my skinny pants to Rolo and embraced the straight and wide legged pants of the world. So far I’ve kept three pairs of jeans (and ordered a duplicate of one of those pairs), one sweater, a pair of overalls, pink converse high tops, and floral Mary Jane-style Doc Martens (tween Dawn is so pleased with adult Dawn for this). Rolo was supportive of these choices in that she shrugged when I asked if I would look weird and said, “You’ll just look like an English teacher.” While I don’t have many pictures of the clothes, here is my yearly, “this is 41” photo along with the haircut. It’s okay if you don’t like the hair. I am undecided about it myself, but I must say that it has kept me from hyperfocusing on my forehead all the time.

In other “We’re aging” news, let’s talk about our most recent mud run. You might think this is a story about how sore we were or something, but no, we did fine physically. We ran with Rolo and two colleagues of Sergio’s, one of whom we met that day. She was a 22 year old law student that was interning here for the summer. She was a delightful person and easy to chat with, but at some point, probably when she and Rolo took off ahead of us and waited for the rest of us at the finish line, we realized that she was FAR closer to the age of our child than to us. It was just a funny realization. In that same theme, Sergio texted me a couple of days ago to say a new PD here grew up in Fayetteville. I quickly calculated and asked him to ask her if we crossed paths when I taught at RJHS. It turned out we missed each other by one year, but there is nothing quite like realizing you are old enough (easily) to have full-on lawyers running around out there that you taught in middle school.

Rolo got her learner’s permit! She has only driven a real car twice since then (and a golf cart once), but she is now legally permitted to do so. If only we can, you know, ever get her to do so.

Rolo has also been participating in high school (ugh! high school!) cross country track for a few weeks. No pictures on my side, but she has discovered more gorgeous hiking/running trails in the last three weeks with her team than we have as a family in over two years.

Webster discovered his butt is too big to fit through the headrests in the car the hard way.

My parents came for their first visit to Alaska! I’ll mostly show you the photos rather than bore you with the details, but here are the basics. We showed them around town, took them to Seward, hiked Hatcher’s Pass and explored the abandoned gold mine, played golf and just generally enjoyed each other’s company. The highlight for me was the wilderness tour we took out of Seward. This was a new experience for all of us. I’ve been on a whale watching tour in BC before, and figured we might see a lot of birds and maybe a whale or two from a great distance. Instead we saw eagles, puffins, sea lions, seals, sea otters, Dall’s Porpoises, and ALL OF THE WHALES! A humpback whale popped up right below us early and close enough we could clearly see her tail markings. I was like, “This is great, no matter what else happens we’ve seen a whale now!” Then we saw a pod of orcas and hung with them for over a half hour, also close enough (but respectfully out of their space) to see their markings, sizes, ages, etc. And I was like, “Wow! This has been amazing!” And then we zoomed past porpoises playing around our boat to head to a bunch of distant spouting. You know you are on an epic trip when the captain has to say the following words, “Just trust me, don’t worry about the porpoises, ignore the nearby orcas AND the more distant pod of humpback whales, and just watch this cluster of birds in front of the boat. Trust me, it’ll be worth it.” And that is how we found ourselves with front row seats for two pods of humpback whales bubble netting! We saw just about everything you could ever hope to see, including a FULL BREECH! I wish our videos and photos did the experience justice, but you have to trust me that it was EPIC! We also saw glaciers and stopped at one long enough to give my parents a dose of winter cold and witness multiple calvings while we were there, after which the staff served us glacial ice margaritas made from a chunk of ice fished from the water. The margs were too strong for me, but the Bloody Mary I drank while enjoying the humpback whale show was excellent. If you ever come here and need a tour recommendation, let me know.

Try clicking here to see this set of photos. We’ll learn together if this works: Photo Album Link

Okay, I think that is the majority of random information from the summer! Now my brain is free to focus on work or vacation blogs or, you know, watching more Tik Toks.

2023 Summer Travel Part 1 of …

We are almost two weeks back from our summer travels. Sorry I didn’t post sooner, but my brain decided to have the “first days of summer shutdown” last week. I think this is pretty self-explanatory, but if not, my neurons have trained themselves over the years to pretty much go into full relaxation mode for about a week as soon as school ends. I might achieve some small housekeeping tasks, but for the most part, I just sit around in sweats looking at my phone for at least seven days. This year I learned that this phenomenon will still happen even if I delay it by almost a month. My body was just like, “Oop, oh, we’re not doing this right away this year? No prob, I still got you, friend.” And so that is the primary reason I’m only settling down to this blog post now. The secondary reason is that I’ve already tried once since returning, and I can’t quite decide how best to organize this post. Just a quick rundown of what we liked and did with pictures? A real travelogue with deep thoughts and lessons attached to our movements? A travel post that pretends it has sponsored content with links? idunno. Let’s just jump in and see what emerges, shall we?

A quick rundown of our primary travel movements – 

Anchorage to Dallas/One week in Dallas

Dallas to Madrid/One night in Madrid

Madrid to Granada/Eight days in Granada

Granada to Madrid/Four days in Madrid

Madrid to NYC/3 ½ Days in NYC

NYC to Anchorage

Both the Dallas and NYC portions of our trip were considered extended layovers to our central Madrid flights on Iberia Air. Gotta love a super flexible flight schedule! Speaking of flights, let’s discuss one of the highest highlights of the trip, at least for Sergio and myself. If you are wondering how we landed on Spain as our destination, there are a few reasons, but mostly it was because we had saved up enough reward mileage to get the fancy LAY DOWN business class seats! We’re gettin’ real sophisticated over here. Now, when I say “we”, I mean only the adults. The girls got regular old seats in the back. This is why flights to Australia or New Zealand didn’t stay in the running very long. The flight needed to be long enough to make the business class opportunity feel like we used it well, but not so long that we had miserable kids enduring a 17 hour flight sitting upright. As it turns out, Dallas to Spain was a bit under nine hours. That felt just about perfect. If you haven’t flown business class and you have the chance to do so, please take the opportunity. Literally the only negative thing I have to say about flying this way is “HOW WILL I EVER GO BACK?”! We booked an overnight flight on the way there, and we were served dinner and breakfast with a big sleep in the middle. On the way home (about six hours), we were on a day flight and I thought business class might feel wasted. Nope. Still awesome. 

Dallas

We flew to Dallas and stayed a week in an Airbnb in Rockwall, TX. Though Rockwall has a big lake, we did not take advantage of that feature this time around. We pretty much chose Rockwall to stay out of Dallas traffic as much as possible. Our house had a great pool and hot tub along with ping pong and foosball tables. We spent half the week with Sergio’s parents and the other half with mine. Though I hate that we didn’t get a chance to head all the way home for summer, I think this was an excellent way to spend time with those that could get to us. Highlights of this portion of the trip, other than the pool, revolved largely around food. We got really exotic stuff like Panera Bread, Bahama Bucks, and In-n-Out x 2. We took Sergio’s parents for dim sum and my parents for pupusas. We did a little pre-trip shopping at the Galleria, perused the farmers markets and boutiques in downtown Rockwall, and had a blast playing our very first round of Top Golf. This portion of the trip was mostly about visiting with family, relaxing, and collecting my youngest niece to take on the rest of the trip with us. Yup, that’s right, we took two 14 year old girls to Europe. Though I love my daughter and niece with all that I have, this still felt risky because, as we know, 14 year olds can be unpredictable.

Madrid Day One

Don’t worry, I won’t be splitting this 23 day trip out by days too often. I’m making the distinction here because we spent one afternoon/night in Madrid before heading on to Granada. We stayed in a hotel we could walk to from the train station. This part of Madrid felt like an entirely different city than the Madrid we stayed in upon our return. I’m glad I got to experience both parts though (disclosure: these areas were actually very close to one another).  

We went out for our first tapas that evening and wandered through the beautiful park the next morning. This tapas place was great. The waitstaff was helpful and kind. We found that waiters would often redirect us in Spain if they felt we could order better. This waiter insisted we try the things this bar did best and then brought us little shots to end the meal. The girls got some sort of apple soda shots that I’m about 85% sure were non-alcoholic. 

I know that I had only a vague understanding of tapas before going to Spain, so if that is also you, here are some general things to know. First, if a place classifies itself as a “tapas bar” it is probably catering to tourists rather than locals. Tapas is a type of food service, not a type of restaurant. Second, tapas is meant to be, like, hearty after work bar snacks, not dinner. And third, while you CAN order what you want in a tapas place, the real excitement comes when you let go. Order a round of drinks and the waiter will bring whatever small, shareable plate of food he decides to bring. Each new round of drinks results in a new small plate of discovery. We got better at this as the trip progressed and discovered better food this way. I also have to break to you that no tapas place I’ve ever been to outside of Spain shares any resemblance to Spanish tapas other than “small plates” and alcohol. Outside-Spain tapas are invariably fancy, expensive, and are NOT brought to you just because you ordered some cheap beer or wine. If you’ve been indifferent about tapas in the past because you’ve only tried them outside of Spain, don’t let that stop you from experiencing the real thing. 

NOW, I won’t pretend that every single outing was magic for everyone. The girls did NOT find anything super enticing on the tapas menu that night. We thought we would be able to find them food on the way back to the hotel, but remember how I said we were in a quiet part of town? Yeah, we didn’t find anything. We attempted to order them something for delivery, but we were so jet-lagged that Sergio and I both fell asleep while still looking for food options on our phones. The girls ate cookies and chips from the minibar … I think. Adulting fail on our part. Sorry, girls. We also all crashed hard at a normal bedtime but found ourselves wide awake on our phones at 3 am. All four of us. At 4:30 am, we made everyone put down phones to see if we could get any more sleep, and surprisingly, we all slept again until about 9 am. Travel realities. We did take a walk straight to the nearby McDonalds the next morning.

The park, El Retiro, was extensive, green, lush, and shady. I would love to explore this area more in the future since we really only had time to meander through the edges on our walk back from tapas. The next morning we wandered into a different park area and stumbled into this picturesque strip of booksellers. Why can’t I just own a small book stall in the middle of a gorgeous park in Madrid?! We also ducked into a nearby chapel as we wandered by. I can’t remember the name off the top of my head, but it was something along the lines of “Chapel of Great Men.” After this, we headed back to the train station to catch our high speed train to Granada. I still love the ease of European rail travel. The girls were totally content once the wifi kicked in. 

Granada

I’m not the most well-traveled person on the planet, but I’ve got a fair few destinations under my belt. I hope this gives my claim some authority when I say that Granada is one of the prettiest places I’ve seen. It’s something more than just pretty because a lot of places have lovely architecture or a memorable landscape, but some places have all that with the addition of *magic*. A little extra something special that just makes it stand out. Granada is one of these places. It is small-feeling without being small. It is ancient hillside buildings surrounding limitless tiny avenues, alleys, and staircases. It is breathtaking views in every direction. It is meticulous rock work to make mosaics out of roads. It is old Spanish music filling the plazas until people begin to slow dance together each night. It is the hills bouncing the sounds around so that you can hear conversations from across town clearly, church bells ringing from every corner, or just enjoy the nightly music from your own roof deck. It is a crossroads of humanity, culture, and religion. It is, frankly, just lovely. I’m not here trying to convince you I discovered some secret place. People from everywhere know it to be a great vacation spot. I knew it would be a worthy destination, but I did not expect to feel so at home there so easily, nor did I expect that “something special” feeling you get every great once in a while.

We stayed in a stunning Airbnb here for 8 days. It came with a massive roof terrace and stellar views. Because we had so much time, we explored slowly. 

Alhambra: This is the center tourist destination for Granada. As mentioned, it is a large complex of fortress, palaces, chapels, gardens, and more. It was built by generations of Muslim rulers in the Moorish style and was eventually conquered by Christian monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella. It is gorgeous, often ingenious, and really speaks for itself. The best thing about Granada as a traveler is the diversity of history and culture you get to experience. I’m sad we were unable to connect our Spain trip with a Morocco trip, but Granada gave us a good introduction into this intersection of the world. 

If I had it to do again, I might split the Alhambra and Generalife tours because the girls really flagged after the buildings and before the gardens. I think we did six miles of walking that day just on the grounds themselves. Rather than have the eternal battle of “parents that want to impart every lesson and experience so don’t waste a moment” and “kids that just want to enjoy themselves and see pretty stuff and then get lunch”, it would have been better to make TWO trips here. 

Catedral de Granada and Capilla Real de Granada: Granada is so walkable that we stumbled into these the first night just by accident while having gelato. We didn’t even know what we were looking at, just that it was pretty. We went back for two separate tours. The cathedral is ample and the audio tour is almost too detailed. I ended up reading the text and imparting the knowledge to speed things up. It really smacked of these two Tik Toks that clearly spy on me. The history buff arm cross and the comment about self-checkouts are, uh, hitting way too close to home.

@sjmcgriff

Anyone else have one of these moms? #historybuff #momsoftiktok

♬ original sound – SJ

I was insistent that we find the Capilla de Real (not realizing we had been by it repeatedly) for history teacher reasons. This is the burial site for Ferdinand and Isabella as well as their immediate descendants. I think the gist is that they chose this area to be buried as a way to show the strength of the monarchy and likely to further display the dominance of Catholicism.  There is a real undertone in all of the tour materials of being MORE THAN OKAY with the whole conquering, inquisition, conversion portion of their history. Just a teensy bit propagandized, I felt, but still a really interesting place to see. I think my niece was a little thrown by how often we were walking on burial sites, and then this chapel takes it a step further by allowing you to see the actual caskets of the five family members through a plexiglass window, one of which is that of a 2 year old baby.

Okay, onto the fo … You know what, I’m only about halfway through the stuff I want to discuss about Granada and I still have Madrid and NYC to go. This is going to have to be a multi-part-er. To be continued …

I Still Bolg, I mean Blog. That’s What This is Called, Right? I Forget.

Oh, dear. Have I not been here since Rolo’s birthday? Oops. April does that to me for some reason. I don’t get anything read, written, or … done … I guess. Why? I couldn’t say. In Alaska, April carries some seasonal depression because the light comes back and your brain tells you it should be spring now, but then you are still getting snow showers in May. I don’t know, it’s weird.

At long last, spring has finally sprung. Don’t get me wrong, it is still in the 30s most mornings, but the sun warms you right up if it comes out and we are even hitting 50s sometimes. There is this really goofy balance I’m trying to strike in my classroom portable of having one heater still running but throwing open every door and window all day as well. It’s an imperfect system.

To go ahead and get the updates rolling, I’ll show you this picture that illustrates spring weather in Alaska. We ran the Valley Thaw Out Race 10k a couple of weeks ago as a family. It was actually closer to 7 miles because they couldn’t get us looped around in 6.2. In the picture below, the sun is shining and lovely but the temperature for the whole race was 38 degrees. There was still plenty of unmelted snow off trail. It was a lovely run and Rolo did a great job for her first long-distance race. She beat me soundly but that was no surprise.

What else? We’ve actually been quite busy. Let me look back through my phone and see. OH! I got Covid. It took three years almost to the day, but I fell to the Rona. Sergio instantly sequestered me to our bedroom, and despite being around them for a full day with symptoms before I finally gave in and admitted it might be more than allergies, he and Rolo managed to stay healthy. I was pretty miserable for the first two days and moderately unwell for a third day. It felt a lot like the time in college that I figured out I had Mono because I gave myself an unshakeable epic hangover, but Covid came with the addition of a fierce fever that kept me shivering for two days straight. You should have seen some of the fever dream sub plans I sent in. It was a mess. I’m fine now except for the fact that I can’t stop napping after work every day. Just for 20 minutes or so, but I can’t shake the habit. Here are some pictures from when the dogs were finally allowed to see me on day 4. Safe to say they missed me, I think, especially Brit who is normally fairly standoffish as dogs go.

We celebrated Easter. Nothing major but we continued our traditions of egg decoration and indoor hunting, ham and mac n cheese dinner, and Rolo even dressed herself up this year because she bought a dress she really likes for our summer travel.

Rolo chose a high school, and it turns out she will be joining me at my school next year. Unfortunately, her first choice of attending the school that offers IB fell through when our district indicated they will be defunding IB soon (this ranks up there with their plan to ban books, defund libraries further, and continually eliminate education hours for students, but those are complaints for another post). Fortunately, she has a spot at my school reserved and there are many benefits to that plan as well.

Rolo was the lead in a school play. I probably won’t post links to her performance here since she is old enough to decide about her own social media presence, but she did a really good job. There were a few glitches you would expect from a middle school drama club production, but I was genuinely impressed with how it all came together. I still marvel at my kid for the bravery it takes to get up in front of a room full of people and belt out solos. It was especially impressive to me because the practice performance in front of the school went about as badly for her as you could expect. She missed the intro music cue and simply stood there silently, all alone on stage through an entire solo. And yet, she got right back out there a few hours later and performed like it had never happened. I don’t know about you, but I would have been out after that first go around, cast mates be damned. She even plans to sing again with one of her cast mate friends this week at the end of year talent show. Her words, “Well, I’ve already failed in front of the whole school, so it can’t be any worse than that.” Like, how is she so nonchalant about singing in front of school and still so incapable of ordering food at a restaurant? Explain it to me slowly.

The last Rolo-centric update is that she is already wrapping up track season. I mean, she has to wrap it up since Thursday is already her last day of middle school. HOW DID THAT HAPPEN?! She had to earn a top five finishing spot in order to participate in her events for the varsity meet next week, and she managed it in all three (shot, discus, mile). Way to go, Rolo!

First day of 6th grade aka yesterday.

And finally, the biggest update to hit our family in a long time, is that Sergio and I both achieved our Public Service Loan Forgiveness. We are a student-loan free household! Our student loan debt was the biggest cloud in our lives, and the number one reason we made big job/geographic moves over the years. I once told my students that I would never be out from under student loans. I would simply die of old age and then whoever survived me would get relief. And yet, here we finally are. Whatever your politics or personal feelings about them as people, Ted Kennedy and Joe Biden play a pretty heroic part in the quality of my life (TK championed this bill back in 2007, and JB finally prioritized making it work so that many people that had been wrongfully denied forgiveness after their 10 years of service+payments have now been processed through to the tune of almost 650,000 of us in 2023). Millennials are finally going to be able to contribute to the economy! But watch me send my kid to college out of this country because this system is basically f**ked. Sorry, but it’s true. I also have to thank Sergio because only people that are super detail-oriented and constantly vigilant can make it through this program without too many stumbles. Even with him directing me, I still had to resubmit paperwork multiple times for tiny errors that could have kept me from achieving forgiveness. My attention-deficit having, conflict averse self could have never managed this alone.

Okay, I think you’re pretty well caught up to us now! In 8 days, we’re set to begin summer travels: Dallas, Granada, Madrid, NYC. Maybe I’ll post in real time and maybe you’ll hear from me again in June. Guess we’ll all have to wait and see.

Oh, and Happy Mother’s Day to all the American Mom-type folks (and to non-Americans too, but I know other countries have this on different days)! Special shout out to my own mom and mother-in-law. I couldn’t have asked for better.

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Dear, Rolo,

Somehow you are fourteen years old today. For no good reason, this one seems to be us hitting hard. The distance between fourteen and your young childhood seems enormous. I can hear the statement I’m making as well as anyone and fully comprehend that it’s a dumb thing to say. You seem the oldest now that you’ve ever been … because you are. It seems the longest distance from your young childhood that we’ve ever been … because it is. But it being a redundant thing to say doesn’t make it any less true!

Maybe the thing that is most interesting about you being fourteen is that there isn’t anything all that interesting about you being fourteen. Other years were full of changes and developments, but the difference in 13 to 14 was negligible. You’re like, I don’t know, 75% formed as a person at this point. The kinds of things that will change over the next few years are your ideologies, hairstyles, and hobbies. It won’t be quite the same as chronicling your shift into eating solid foods or learning to walk, you know?

Don’t misunderstand, I am just as fascinated by 14 year old you as I ever was any other age of Rolo. I know you managed to break the 5’9 mark in height this year. You’ve actually regressed in your eating, especially in the last two weeks as you prepped for and got new braces. You’re basically down to slowly nibbling on overcooked ramen noodles over the course of hours. You still love art and continue to develop your skills. You graduated from mostly animated shows to mostly sitcoms, but for whatever reason, you also watch Bluey. In fact, you got a Bluey birthday balloon this year. I would probably think teens watching Bluey was concerning, but I grew up in the era where my friends went bonkers about Power Rangers in middle school (“ironically” of course) and then again with Blue’s Clues in early high school. It happens. You still cry easily at movies. You’ve got an ever-expanding friend group that seems like it’s full of good kiddos. You’ve already taken the PSAT and could apply for a Learner’s Permit if you wanted to. I’m certain we’ll have to bribe you to get you to drive, so I don’t see that happening soon. You have opinions on Steinbeck and Shakespeare, but you’ll still sit and draw 300 spiders on your legs during class rather than get your work done in a timely fashion. We have to make you leave your room and hang out with us a lot of the time, and sometimes you smudge the details (lie) a bit about your schoolwork. You might spend hours drawing on your iPad, listening to music in your room, and texting your friends only to emerge and want one of us to watch an animated Disney movie “from your childhood” with you.

Oh! Aha! Maybe that’s it. Maybe I’ve cracked the code. Fourteen feels so far from your childhood because YOU think so. You have started to be nostalgic for your own youth. To me it is just a few years ago, but for you, it’s an entire lifetime ago.

Back to the point of the post. Rolo at fourteen. Let’s see. You’re really honing in on your own personal style and you aren’t afraid to try some risky combinations. Lots of calf length skirts that a shorty like me only wishes I could wear with cut up t-shirts and combat boots. I’m a fan. Other days you still go a week straight in leggings and hoodies. It all seems perfectly developmentally appropriate to me. You are also squarely in the age where you are starting to define yourself as much by what you think you AREN’T as by what you think you ARE. This is also developmentally appropriate, but just like my students, you can’t escape my lectures that this is fleeting and you shouldn’t limit yourself from trying new things or judge others because they are the things you aren’t. I would say, after fifteen years of observing students, that you are reaching the height of this stage and should begin expanding back outward again soon. Sixteen at the latest. When you tell us you don’t like something, are afraid to try something, or don’t want to participate in things you would once have been enthusiastic about, I keep this in mind.

Of course, you are still enthusiastic about many things. You joined drama, you still love to sing, you’ve recently picked up the guitar and some learning apps again recently. You create art constantly. You make good grades, and the subjects and teachers that you love, you REALLY love. We are still trying to crack the code on how to make you put the same level of effort toward the stuff you don’t care as much about. I’ll let you know if we figure it out. Your teachers say you are kind and a leader at school. That’s good to hear because those aren’t things we have a lot of opportunity to witness firsthand. At home it’s more like you will shirk cleaning your room for a weekend or laugh at me every single time you see me because I remain four inches shorter than you. A fact that seems to offer you endless entertainment.

I guess the point is, you are solidly a teenager. And not a newbie teen either. You’re careening so quickly toward the adult years that we have whiplash. You have high school credits under your belt and two high school schedules already created for next year. We have tentative plans to start doing college visits. You are beginning to make choices that could impact the rest of your life. Yikes! I keep asking you to stay eleven. I’ve been asking since you were eleven. You’ve always stubbornly refused, but I think for the first time, you might be considering giving it a go.

Happy birthday, Rolo Cate! Oh, and I’ll note it here for readers, and for future Rolo in case she forgets. This is her palindrome birthday. Rolo LOVES that kind of thing with dates and numbers and has been tracking that this would be a palindrome birthday for at least two years. Hence the title of this post. Okay, I’m off to make birthday mac and cheese and lemon bars. Let’s hope she can eat them with her brand new braces.